Feral Cats in Unincorporated Snellville

Feral cats are the offspring of abandoned cats that have turned wild, according to LifeLine Animal Project.  According to Enid Grigg, president of the Mountain Cove Homeowner's Association in unincorporated Snellville, there has been a rise in the number of feral cats over the past couple of months.

"This is a real problem as cats that aren’t spayed can reproduce 3 times a year and have four to six kittens each litter," said Grigg. "Female kittens can become pregnant at three months, so it’s imperative that you act quickly to avoid this.  One cat can potentially produce 108 offspring in any given year."

Because feral cats are usually afraid of people, the best thing to do is trap them, neuter them, and return them (TNR) to their natural environment.  LifeLine Animal Project lists the following as reasons for TNR:

• A cat community controls rodents.
• Less fighting and howling:  They have no reason to if not to mate. Less fighting also means that they won’t be spreading diseases to each other.
• No killing:  It is a better alternative than sending them to a needless death at animal control.
• Feral cats live around a food source.  If we send ferals to animal control, it creates a vacuum effect.  Unspayed cats will move into the area, eat, and breed up to capacity.  A stable, manageable cat colony keeps unspayed cats away;  therefore the colony does not produce unwanted litters.
• Expense to Taxpayers:  Each year, metro Atlanta animal controls spend over $15 million taxpayer dollars dealing with the consequences of animal overpopulation. Research proves that euthanizing animals does not effectively reduce pet overpopulation—only spaying, neutering, and TNR can do that!

Follow this guide, provided by LifeLine Animal Project, to trap feral cats:

Before you Trap

 Feed only once per day to accustom the cats to being fed at the specific location and exact time of day at least one week prior to trapping. Cats must be hungry to enter the traps, so withhold food for at least 24 hours prior to trapping.   This is standard humane trapping protocol and will not hurt the cats.  Sometimes a cat will not go in a trap unless food has been withheld for up to five days.  A cat can go for two weeks without food.  Do not feed the cats until you have trapped them. 

Select a quiet location that is not readily visible to the passerby but where you can observe the traps from a distance. Don't bother trapping in the rain because cats will not come out. Make sure the trap is clean after each new cat colony has been trapped so as not to spread any disease. Make sure the kittens are at least 2 pounds (8 weeks) so they can be fixed. 

Supplies

• A can of tuna or jack mackerel
• One feral trap for each cat you want to catch
• Thick newspaper to line the bottom of each trap
• A sheet or large towel to cover the entire trap on all sides
• Spoons for the bait, and a can opener if you need one
• Gloves for your protection, if you want
• Binoculars, if you want
• If you are trapping at night, a flashlight to see if the cat has an ear tip

Start Trapping

Place the traps on a flat surface in a shady area at the trapping site so it won't rock or tip.  Insert thick layers of newspaper or a towel to disguise the bottom of the trap and absorb urine and waste.

Place two tablespoons of bait on the newspaper at the back of the trap behind the trip plate. Place about one tablespoon in the middle, and one tablespoon at the opening. Quietly set and cover the traps, and leave the area, but keep the trap in distant view. The cats are unlikely to enter the traps if you are nearby. You might want to use binoculars to keep an eye on the cats and traps.  If you are trapping in your yard, you can go inside. In public areas,traps should never be left unattended.  It is a fact—people will release a trapped cat, and most cats will not let themselves be trapped a second time.

Trapping a feral cat may take some time, possibly a few hours. Make sure the cat is securely trapped before you approach the trap. If you approach the trap too soon, you might frighten the cat away.

After Trapping

Important!  Make sure the entire trap is covered with a towel before moving it.  Covering the trap: 1) calms the frightened cat and lessens his risk of injury, and 2) prevents the spread of any disease between cats at the clinic.  It is normal for the cat to thrash around inside the trap. If a cat has hurt himself, do not release him, but let the vet examine his injury at the time of neutering. Never let the cat out of the trap before it has been fixed. You will never get him back in the trap.

Check the cat for an ear tip ( a V-notch, or a missing tip).  If it has one, the cat has already been fixed, so release the cat and re-bait the trap.  Do not put your fingers near the wire mesh.  Do not leave any food out if you plan to trap in the following days.  Only when you are finished trapping for the week should you leave food and water.  Be a responsible caregiver and remember:  It is better for the cats to diet a couple days than to nurse baby kittens through the freezing cold.

Housing Before Surgery

Hold the cats overnight in their trap. Keep them dry and warm. If it is too cold outside for you, then it is too cold for the cats. Do not leave cats in traps exposed to heat or sun.  They can stay in a basement, garage, spare room, or covered porch. Make sure your animals cannot get near the cat in the trap. Place cardboard and newspaper underneath the trap to absorb any urine. Cats cannot eat any food 8 hours prior to surgery.

For more information, visit the LifeLine Animal Project's website or Neighborhood Cats.